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(The ~ symbol indicates pitches which must be seconded because they traverse too much to allow rap-cleaning). Seventh Pillar LHV (short version) ( * 28m 22) In particular, the following pitches are highly recommended, and have rap anchors: In this regard it is worth remembering that, at times when difficult multi-pitch routes are all a bit too much, many of the hard classics have excellent easier first pitches. It could have also been a "Top 7" because Mr Joshua and ' The Seventh Pillar' are right up there too.ĭespite a reputation of being largely inaccessible to moderate climbers, the truth is that if you climb in the low 20s there are many days' worth of truly fantastic climbing to be had. While a number of climbs unfortunately require a bolt for aid or have a crux move that is grades harder than anything else on the climb, the climbs are nevertheless generally magnificent.īecause of the uniformly excellent quality of the climbing, previous guides have used "Taipan stars", which effectively involved deducting a star from most routes and only giving 3 stars to those particularly sublime routes which push for the mythical 4th star! In a break with that tradition, this guide gives stars wherever they're deserved - and 'Taipan' deserves plenty! To help you work out what is the absolute cream of the crop, look out for the group of "Taipan's Top 5": Daedalus, Cardigan St (pitch 2), 'Feather Boa', 'Serpentine', and 'World Party' (pitch 3). And the wall doesn't only have good looks: the climbs themselves are almost all of incredibly high quality. It is certainly the most outstanding climbing feature of the Grampians: a 200m long, overhanging wall up to 60 metres high, which positively glows a stunning orange in the evening sunshine.
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' Taipan Wall' is widely considered to be the best single crag in 'Australia', and many climbers consider that it ranks up there amongst the very best crags in the world. It's a shame we have to start with the above, but unfortunately the popularity of this great crag is having some side effects caused by those who are happy to shit in their own nest. Visiting Americans and Euros bringing this practice with them start bushfires all too often - the Australian bush is highly flammable! (b) if you need to poo while at the crag (which should be rare if you adhere to (a)!), then please walk at least 50m (no, 10m from the base of the crag is NOT ok!) and make sure you bury your poo and paper. (a) Before you leave the car, please try to poo in the toilets at Flat Rock car park and Sadly, it therefore now appears that climbers would be wise to brace for a far more dire outcome for Taipan climbing than Parks Vic had previously led us to believe in the Dec 2021 MP.
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How they define which routes are "north" or "south" is yet to be advised. In particular, it now indicates that access will only be allowed " to the northern section of the wall". Unfortunately the Parks Vic website has subsequently been changed in a way that makes it clear that there is an intention to significantly alter (backtrack from) this documented position. Until then climbing cannot take place at Upper Taipan Wall". Once these measures have been put in place, Upper Taipan Wall will be a designated rock climbing area. However, through discussions with Traditional Owners, who worked with the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Group alternate access points and other mitigation measures were identified and agreed as suitable for allowing access. Upper Taipan Wall was assessed and found to have cultural values. There were previously some positive signs in the Dec 2021 Management Plan, however it now appears clear that any optimism this might have raised unfortunately needs to be tempered.
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